Ranger Louis and the ultimate DOC experience

October 26, 2011
For winning What Now’s Ranger for a day prize, Christchurch’s ten year old Louis Harris got to go up to Auckland for the ultimate DOC experience.

Their feathers feel like hair with too much gel in it!

The adventure begins

Louis and his father Graham, met Biodiversity Ranger Hazel Speed and I at Auckland airport bright and early to begin the adventure.

The two-day trip involved a ride out to Motuora Island to help release three kiwi chicks with the BNZ Save the Kiwi Trust; a night at Sandspit Holiday Park; and a day tracking takahē, checking up on tīeke eggs, and playing with rodent dogs on Rangitoto and Motutapu Islands.

One cute chick!

It was a well-rounded ranger experience; there was some disappointment (not being able to find a takahē signal), some success (finding Motutapu Island’s first tīeke eggs), and some gross bits (having to put wet socks and shoes back on and trek through swampy grass). But it was all part of being a ranger!

Day one on Motuora was spent with members of the Motuora Restoration Society, exploring the island and learning about all the hard work that goes into keeping it safe and suitable for the kiwi (who were ultra cute and very well behaved). It had been pouring with rain (but had luckily stopped by the time we’d arrived) so the ground was a bit of a mess—this is where the gross bit fits in. Because of the 5 am start to get to Auckland in time, we were all exhausted by mid-afternoon.

From left to right, rangers Nick, Louis, Andrew and Hazel

On day two we ferried out to Rangitoto. “Welcome to my office,” Hazel told us when we arrived. All the tourists started walking and wandering around but, as rangers, we were met by Rangitoto staff Andrew and Nick, who had a DOC ute waiting for us. We were super-confused when Hazel said we were going to Motutapu (not knowing how close it was), and then amazed as we crossed the small bridge to a completely different landscape!

Andrew gave us a safety briefing and then away we went. Takahē hunting, track walking, hill climbing, trap checking, bush slipping, egg finding, photo taking—we did it all. And then it was time for lunch at the house with John Neilsen and his three rodent dogs (the first hedgehog dogs in New Zealand, and possibly the world!).

Trying hard to find a signal

Meeting the dogs

Louis, who’s always wanted to be a DOC ranger, thought at the start that he’d like to be a mountaineering/biodiversity ranger (with a focus on kea, his favourite native bird). However, after meeting John and his furry friends Tui, Polly and Iti toa (the four month old pup), he might be re-thinking his career aspirations.

“I think the highlight of the trip for Louis was the interaction with John’s dogs,” said Graham.

Peanut butter?

“Even though he has his own dog at home, there was something special about Johns’, especially [Iti] Toa,” he said.

After lunch (and a few games of catch) we crossed back to Rangitoto (about 10 degrees hotter because of the black scoria) and walked to the summit. Toa and John came too, while Hazel followed a tīeke pair around the crater to listen to their dialect.

Graham, Louis and I at the summit of Rangitoto

“Both Hazel and John’s passion and knowledge of their jobs was clear to see and we really enjoyed the time spent with them,” said Graham.

The competition was run by TV2’s What Now show and DOC during Conservation Week. To enter, children had to say why they loved New Zealand. Louis’ entry—the only video submission—stood out, with a lot of effort clearly involved.

It was a whirlwind couple of days out in the field (Louis even fell asleep halfway through day one!) but the little guy was up for anything and everything. With his enthusiasm and effort, he’d make a great future addition to the team as DOC’s first dog handling, mountaineering, kea specialist ranger!

Tui, Louis and Toa having a laugh


Coming to the end of a year on Raoul

October 20, 2011

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research and maintaining the native species on the island.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Team Leader – Restoration, Jess Clark.

On my bucket list

For 10 years, going to Raoul was pencilled in on my life agenda, and my time here is nearly over. In some respects the time is passing way too fast, in others it has been a long haul.

Walking along the coast towards Hutchies bluff and sooty tern colony.

Walking along the coast towards Hutchies bluff and the sooty tern colony

I thought I was off to live on a remote island and it would be fairly low profile, but this year has had more than its fair share of high profile visitors and media attention. Let’s hope the existence and significance of the Kermadecs is now more widely renowned.

It’s the beginning of summer when you arrive for the year long stint. Everything is flowering and breeding with cute babies everywhere as the next generation flourishes in a pest free environment.

There is sand on the beach for refreshing swims as you settle into the grand Raoul lifestyle. There is a good month of stinking hot humidity to sweat through the worst of the semi tropical climate. The top peaks of the island seem forever cloaked in cloud, creating its unique cloud bush habitat.

Getting to grips with Raoul

The bush is interesting and includes the lowland dry areas, as well as the cloud forest where there is the most diversity, with of course pohutukawa throughout.

RNZAF Airforce Orion delivering an air drop.

RNZAF Airforce Orion delivering an air drop

Admittedly, it’s frustrating at first at getting familiar with the plants. Species appearing like mainland species but existing in different habitat and others like ‘Mapou’ looking completely different to its mainland relative with the same common name.  Compared to the Waitakere Ranges there are distinctly less insects and spiders, which I have to admit I appreciate while scrambling amongst it all weeding.

The weeding is like going tramping in a team and sometimes when I’m climbing amongst the cyclone ravaged pohutukawa I feel like I’m in the movie Avatar, just without the flying and a bit more sweat, dirt and scratches.

Airdrops are always thrilling and I feel privileged to have had first hand experience with the NZ Navy, Air Force and Army. 

A glimpse of a different world

Snorkelling with kingfish and blue maomao.

Snorkelling with kingfish and blue maomao

The sea is teeming with marine life, including a few seemingly impassive sharks, which are always magnificent to observe. Hours can be lost snorkelling and exploring the underwater world that collides against spectacular lava formations and rocks along the coast.

This is sea bird terrain, the racket of calls, squawks and chatter with their soaring wing spans or crowded flocks dominate the skies around the Meyers and infiltrate the subdued underwater world. 

I’ll never forget the tropic bird stalling for a good 10 seconds mid-flight only meters away from me, turning its head to check me out. I have become accustomed to kakariki hanging out on the lawn, not bothering to fly away until you almost trip over them.

Tropic bird checking out the camera.

Tropic bird checking out the camera

It was an exciting and eventful winter with La Nina delivering Cyclone Bune and many other storms that raged over the island leaving destruction behind them, which in turn has opened up opportunity for the pioneer stages of Raoul bush to regenerate the open space left behind.

I feel like we are just coming out the other side of winter, and I’m glad I brought my hottie! A time of clear blue sky days with a crisp horizon line before it becomes hazy with humidity and wafts of the pleasant pungent aroma scent the air that will forever be a smell of Raoul for me.

More whales and sea birds are returning everyday for another season of their life at the Kermadecs and the change-over is drawing near for the annual swap of staff and volunteers.

The bird dominated skys on the Meyer Islands.

The bird dominated skys on the Meyer Islands

There is a certain amount of satisfaction surviving on a remote island for a year, although you certainly are not roughing it with the living conditions.

I feel incredibly honoured and proud to have contributed, weeded, protected, experienced and continued the legacy of many others in New Zealand’s most northern territory, and one heck of an environmentally significant place.

I’d like to send out a big welcome to the new team starting out on their Raoul journey.


The boss has arrived!

September 9, 2011
Pair of Tasman boobies, North Meyer Island.

Pair of Tasman boobies, North Meyer Island

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research and maintaining the native species on the island.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Ranger – Threats (Weeds), Biodiversity & Mechanic, Tim Butcher.

The Otago arrives

Usually for me, the month of May means one thing—duck shooting! This year however, May brought with it a whole new variety of activities. It was early in the month that the HMNZS Otago arrived for our resupply.

HMNZS Otago near Raoul Island.

The HMNZS Otago steaming to Raoul Island

On board, along with our food and gear for the next six months, were our winter vollies, aka volunteers (a cyclone clean up crew), the Minister of Conservation and her party, a group of artists, a representative from the Pew environment group, two radio presenters and two sparkies (one of which was our DOC staff member from Warkworth, Paul Rennie).

A busy day of unloading saw everything and everyone landed on the island. The artists and the Minister set about exploring the island as they were here for only two days.

The short period of the Otago’s stay was a busy time; we were not used to having so many people to talk to! We were joined on shore by the Commanding Officer of the Otago on the day before their departure. We had organised a lunch and presentations for the VIPs which was held on the front lawn. I was a little concerned about giving a speech to the big boss (aka the Minister!), but it all went off without a hitch.

The next day we once again manned the fox (the flying fox, that is) and derrick and offloaded everyone’s gear. It was somewhat tricky with a solid northerly swell coming into Fishing Rock. To offload the people we had to launch our lancer (boat) with Toby driving and Zarak assisting. They were able to get right up to the rocks to pick people up and then deliver them to the Navy inflatable. No one went in the drink and Toby and Zarak did a mighty job pretending they were on Piha rescue!

Kermadec petrel chick, North Meyer Island.

Kermadec petrel chick, North Meyer Island

It was then time to say goodbye to our summer vollies Nigel, Maree and Terry. We were all sad to see them go as we’d had many a great time with them over the summer. They put a huge effort into the weed programme and into looking after the island.

Other ships in our waters

While the Otago was here we also had the Braveheart and Tranquil Image floating around with groups of scientists checking out the underwater life (as well as some who came ashore to catch insects and look at plants). Three boats out at the Meyer Islands all at once! Madness! The findings of the research conducted will be very interesting.

The clean up crew

Now that the Otago had left, we had a few extras for a month or so. The cyclone clean up crew (Mike, Zarak and Ian) got to work on cleaning up Boat Cove Road, which was hit hard by fallen trees and slips during the cyclone. After that they tidied up some other tracks and also repaired the derrick shed. They got through a mountain of work that would have taken us the rest of our time here to complete otherwise.

Tasman booby preening, North Meyer Island.

Tasman booby preening, North Meyer Island

The two Pauls got stuck into testing wiring, replacing fuse boards, digging holes, listening to Frank Sinatra and putting my tools were I couldn’t find them. As well as all this activity, we were getting the new vollies (Ed, Amy, Danielle and James) up to speed with the things that go on here.

The time with the extra people on the island was pretty fun. Mike celebrated his birthday during that time so a traditional dress up party was a must.

Out to the Meyers

A trip to the Meyers was a highlight of the month. We had two bird recorders to install—one on North Meyer and one on South Meyer. I spent most of the day sitting on the hill taking photos of the sea birds.

There were thousands of Kermadec petrels of all colour phases nesting, many with chicks ranging from newly hatched to bordering on being fully fledged. Hopping around between the nests were several kakariki.

There were still a good number of red-tailed tropic birds nesting on the cliffs. My best experience of the day came when a pair of Tasman boobies landed about three metres away from me. Without a care in the world they went about their business of preening and calling to each other. One was picking up small stones and sticks and giving them to the other as little gifts. Maybe a stick is the booby equivalent of a bunch of flowers?

There was also a juvenile that repeatedly flew low overhead, looking in on proceedings, but it never landed. At one stage, one from the pair walked to within a metre of me a stood there looking at me with a quizzical look on its face. Several hundred photos and a few hours later I left them to their business (even though they didn’t seem to care I was there) and headed back to the boat.

Red tailed tropic bird on nest.

Red tailed tropic bird on nest

From there we headed to South Meyer to install the second recorder. Once again it was covered with nesting Kermadec petrels. An interesting find was a recently deceased Kermadec little shearwater.

And back to normal life

Apart from our weekend activities, the hard work of running an island continues. There is always something that requires attention. But that’s what makes the job so diverse and interesting!


Hammered by Cyclone Bune

June 27, 2011

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research and maintaining the native species on the island. Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Ranger – Threats (Weeds) & Biodiversity, Toby Shanley.

The tail end of cyclone season

By late March life here on Raoul Island had settled into a familiar routine made up of weeding four days a week, maintaining tracks, roads, grounds and infrastructure one day a week and for the most part exploring our beautiful surroundings on the weekend. 

Raoul Island hostel.

The Raoul Island hostel on a calm day!

The end of March is usually seen as the end of cyclone season and it appeared the island was going to survive the summer unscathed by any major weather systems. But this was all about to change! On 26 March we woke to tremendous surf pounding the north side of the island, and although the weather was calm and fine this was a sure sign that trouble was brewing to our north.

Cyclone Bune is on its way…

A quick check of the weather map confirmed our suspicions as we saw a large storm brewing just south of Fiji. A Google search informed us that we were looking at tropical cyclone Bune (pronounced mm-boo-nay), which had just been upgraded to a category three cyclone. We also received a sat phone call from Metservice ensuring that we were aware of the cyclones proximity and they informed us that it was forecast to pass very near us as it travelled south.

The cyclone travelled very slowly towards us for the next two days and the swell grew until the whole island seemed to rumble under the force of the pounding waves. Then on the afternoon of Monday  28 March the winds began to rapidly increase as the cyclone approached us.

Fishing rock being pounded by surf.

Fishing rock being pounded by surf whipped up by Cyclone Bune

By this time all the necessary precautions had been taken so that light objects would not blow away and the hostel was as secure as possible.

…and Bune arrives!

By early evening the wind was screaming through the trees that line the edge of the cliff out in front of the hostel and leaves and small branches were being tossed high into the air. The winds continued to increase until around 8pm when all of a sudden they dropped completely leaving a very eerie silence.

We all went out on to the lawn and marvelled at how still and quiet it was compared to the chaos of a few minutes prior. This was the eye of the cyclone and we were unsure how long the stillness would last. We all went to bed expecting that any second the wind would return as strong as ever.

The trailing edge of the eye finally passed us at around midnight and the wind returned with renewed ferocity. The wind was now coming from the south west as opposed to the afternoon when it had been blowing from the north east.

Our accommodation is well sheltered from the north east but not so much from the south west and so we all had a very sleepless night. The wind seemed to build up in the hills behind the hostel and then coming roaring and screaming down towards us in regular violent gusts. But by morning the worst of it was past us.

The damaged foxway shed.

The damaged foxway shed

Surveying the damage

The task for the following few days was obvious, to survey the damage and to prepare for the cleanup. The first two priorities were to check our water supply and the road to our landing point which is 3 km away from the hostel. On checking the buildings around base we discovered that two had suffered substantial damage with one missing half of its roof.

The news back about the water supply and road was not good either. It looked as if the spring that we take most of our water from had been submerged by a giant slip and the road to the landing was covered in huge fallen trees. It was obvious that the cleanup would need to be started as soon as possible.

To add to the urgency of it we were due for a visit from the Heritage Expeditions cruise ship the Spirit of Enderby within two weeks. Over those two weeks the team put in a huge effort to clear enough of the roads and tracks so that we could show the passengers on the expedition some of this beautiful island we call home. 

Forest flattened by Cyclone Bune.

Forest flattened by Cyclone Bune

The cyclone put the weeding on hold but we should be back into it by mid May when a team of people come up with the Navy to help clear the rest of the roads and tracks. The Navy will also bring us food and supplies for the next six months and four new volunteers who will live and work with us until we leave the island in late October.

Farewells

To the vollies who are leaving us Nicki, Maree, Terry, and Nigel a huge thank you for devoting a part of your lives to help restore this amazing island.


A black-winged petrel named Laughing Jack becomes a favourite on Raoul Island

April 14, 2011

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1,000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC has a small team of rangers and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing reseach and maintaining the native species on the island. Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by volunteer, Maree Roberts.

Is Laughing Jack our favourite bird…?

Baby Jack, a Black-winged petrel chick, on the nest

It is not surprising that in being surrounded by birds, one or two would become favourites, or at least well-known to us. This is so of Laughing Jack, a Black-winged petrel that has built its nest on a nearby track.

This track, the Orange Grove Track, is an access route to the main track across the island and to many of our weeding plots. We therefore walk past Laughing Jack’s nest on a nearly daily basis.

Now Laughing Jack is not one for spending a lot of time on a fancy nest; this nest is more like a hollowed out groove in the edge of the track. So once the egg was laid and Laughing Jack was sitting on it, he was perched on the edge of his nest fully visible to us.

One of the coolest things that I have learnt on Raoul is that you can literally call black-winged petrels to you through a very strange and funny way. Basically you make a “wo wo wo” sound by patting your mouth with your hand. This has them swooping down all around you and often landing beside you, or if you are lucky, even on you. 

So each time we would walk past Laughing Jack’s nest we would make this sound and Laughing Jack being a friendly kind of bird would answer back loud and clear. Laughing Jack became so used to us that just walking by and making the noise set him off. And it seemed to us that Laughing Jack sounded just like he was laughing his head off at how silly we sounded – hence the name ‘Laughing Jack’. 

Red-tailed tropicbird on a nest

We have had many a laugh with Laughing Jack over the last month as he sat on the nest. And then, as these things go, baby Jack appeared. Black-winged petrel chicks are the cutest balls of fluff you ever saw and we were lucky to be able to see this one clearly due to the meagre nature of Laughing Jack’s nest.

Of course the first thing we did was try out the call and in response, in the squeakiest pitch, was the familiar laughing call. So now we get to not only watch baby Jack grow and grow, but also to say hello every time we pass and hear him laughing his fluffy head off about how silly we all sound!

… or is it the Red-tailed tropicbird?

It is quite a competition around here for which birds are our favourite and for me it has always been the beautiful Red-tailed tropicbird. When the sun is shining and you look up and see one, you can almost see right through their white wings and as for the long red tail feathers well, they are just fantastic.

Red-tailed tropicbird chick on nest

We recently got to go over to the Meyer Islands, another bonus of being on Raoul Island. These islands are literally coated in beautiful, and sometimes quite rare, seabirds. 

On this trip I was privileged to get to see up close not only several tropicbirds, but their fluffy white chicks as well. This was a real highlight of my trip to Raoul and made me realise just how lucky I am to have come to stay in this bird paradise.


Keeping us company – birds on Raoul Island

March 11, 2011

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1,000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC has a small team of rangers and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research and maintaining the native species on the island. Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by volunteer, Nigel Hubbard.

Apart from the many seabirds on and around the Raoul Island there are several local inhabitants – tui, kakariki, thrush, crakes and pukeko. When we are out weeding, we often have an audience of tui or kakariki accompanying us as we grid search. 

Tui

The tui have a very wide range of different songs (none of which I can reproduce here) including clicks and croaks as well as the usual bell like sounds and more melodic tui song.  With these birds accompanying us we often whistle back to them. And if other weeding groups have done this previously, perhaps it is no wonder that the tui don’t know what songs they should be singing and have developed a diverse range of calls!

Tui on Raoul Island.

Tui on Raoul Island

Apart from the diversity of song (as I believe is the case with tui in New Zealand), it is the diversity of shape and size of tui on Raoul that amazes me.  They range from a few well rounded and plump healthy birds to very scrawny, mangy looking specimens which have thin necks and tattered feathers. 

The most well fed and healthy seem to be those living near the historic orchard, which has orange, grapefruit, peach and fig trees.  I think these must be the elite birds, and perhaps the best fighters being able to retain control of this patch containing premium food sources. 

At the other end of the scale the birds that we see at the top of Mount Moumoukai, which is the highest point on the island. They are all very lean and their feathers seem less colourful and more ragged.  These skinny specimens really do look like disapproving parsons with judgmental eyes – tui were also called Parson birds due to the white ruff at their throats.  Here on Raoul, the throat feathers on the thin tuis can be very worn looking wispy feathers.

Kakariki

As for the kakariki, or parakeets, these are often very tame and will land quite close when we are weeding.  They all look identically healthy wherever they are on the island. They also all make the same ka-ka-ka sound, especially the younger birds, who seem to be able to keep an incessant ka-ka-ka for literally hours on end.  Their poor long suffering parent birds!

Kakariki on Raoul Island.

Kakariki (New Zealand parakeet) on Raoul Island

Pukeko

The pukeko are frequently mentioned in these blogs and in the Raoul Island Bulletin.  There are pukeko several families living around the hostel, which regularly stage fights out on our front lawn.  Whenever we walk out to the flagpole or in other directions, such as over to the met station to use the internet, the parent pukeko call with peremptory tone to which the young respond by immediately diving into the nearest long grass they can find. 

Some of the pukeko even try to creep up behind us with apparent harmful intent. However, I am not aware of any injuries from pukeko attack being sustained here!

As a nature reserve, the birds are safe from any human interference, but they are still cautious of coming too close to us.  We don’t feed them, so they have no reason to come near, and perhaps they have an instinctive protection mechanism to avoid venturing near any animal that is bigger than they are.


Auckland anglers assist research on great white sharks

March 4, 2011

A team of anglers competing in the Counties One Base fishing contest have helped tag and release a great white shark which is providing valuable research information.

Michael Grey, Ethan James and Braden Olsen caught the shark while fishing in Manukau Harbour. Following advice provided at the competition briefing by DOC shark researcher, Clinton Duffy, they secured the shark alongside their boat ‘On It’ and motored slowly ahead to keep it alive. They called in the capture by cell phone and the news was relayed to Clinton by the One Base radio operator and the crew of a nearby jet ski.  

20 minutes later Clinton and his helpers arrived to attach two types of satellite tags – A fin mounted SPOT (smart position and temperature) tag that transmits each time the shark surfaces; and a PAT tag (pop-up archival transmitting tag) that will stay on the shark for a year and archive depth and temperature data.

The SPOT tag transmits information when the shark surfaces and allows Clinton to track her movements

The PAT tag (pop-up archival transmitting tag) will stay on the shark for one-year and archive depth and temperature data

“The animal was tagged in a part of the Manukau Harbour not far from Auckland International Airport,” said Clinton. “Great white sharks, including pregnant females, are regularly reported in the Hauraki Gulf, and the Manukau and Kaipara Harbours also appear to provide important habitat, particularly for juveniles.” 

Clinton Duffy attaching the SPOT (smart position and temperature) tag to a white shark in Manukau Harbour

The shark measured at 2.4 metres in length and was identified as a juvenile great white female, with an estimated weight of 143 kg. She was given the name ‘Marina’ after a member of the White Shark Conservation Trust that helped tag her. 

Since then, Marina has been on the move and her tag has yielded valuable information for Clinton and his research. She was picked up outside the Manukau Harbour on the 7th Feb for the first time after she was released. On the 16th of Feb she swam from a position close to the Manukau Bar to, just north of Port Waikato, and back again. By 25 Feb Marina had been up to the entrance of the Kaipara Harbour and headed north.

The latest track on Marina was only yesterday (3rd of March) and incredibly she was recorded off the northern tip of New Zealand at Cape Maria Van Diemen! Which means since leaving Hamilton’s Gap south of the Manukau Harbour on the 15th  of February she has covered a minimum distance of 355 km, not including her meanderings in between. Clinton was confident she would be feeding on fish, particularly kahawai, trevally, kingfish, school shark and snapper.

Map generated from Marina's tag showing her movements in Manukau Harbour

Map generated from Marina's tag showing her movements off the Kaipara Harbour

As of yesterday Marina was tracked off Cape Maria Van Diemen at the Northern tip of New Zealand

It was the fifth year running that Clinton has been involved with the sport fishing event which is held each year during Waitangi weekend.  He is co-leader of a research project on great white sharks (Carcharodon carcharias) in New Zealand involving the Department of Conservation, NIWA and the University of Auckland. The primary objectives of this research are to investigate: 

  • Movements of white sharks between New Zealand and the wider pacific.
  • Movements and habitat use within New Zealand waters
  • The use of photo-identification as a means of monitoring the white shark population

In 2007 white shark were listed as a protected species under the Wildlife Act 1953 and DOC is working along side international scientists to learn more about them.  Part of this work relies on assistance from the public for reports of sighting and animals that are hooked on fishing lines. 

Special thanks go out to the Counties Sport Fishing Club, particularly Michael, Ethan and Braden for assisting with the tagging of Marina.  Like the fishermen from Auckland, there are things you can do to help white shark.  The DOC website has some tips on how you can help.


Time is flying by

February 23, 2011
Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1,000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC has a small team of rangers and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research, and maintaining the native species on the island. Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by volunteer, Nicki Atkinson.

Time is flying by, I’m almost half way into my 5 month stint on Raoul Island as a volunteer and already I don’t want to leave!

I am getting used to island life now and haven’t experienced a second of boredom yet. These first few months have been fairly action packed with a visit from 14 German ham radio operators in November, an air drop as well as Xmas and New Year celebrations – all of which successfully distracted the team from, well, ourselves mostly!

Hamming it up

The ham radio guys (and one geek lady!) were an interesting pack. I didn’t know a lot about ham radio before they came – and actually I still don’t! They spent three weeks solid tapping out their call signs in tents that were pitched among a web of aerials. They worked as a team, on a rotation of twelve hour shifts, to make contact with as many other ham radio operators around the world as they could (apparently they did quite well with 140,000 odd contacts made).

We had a number of social gatherings with them and a few of our team took them up to the highest point of the island, Moumoukai, and along the beach near our accommodation. I did not get to know them particularly well however, and the day they were packing up, Sian and I walked passed their camp and saw one guy that both of us had never met before – a strange concept on an island that only had 25 people on it!

Into the blue

Jess, Toby and I managed to go for a dive while the Braveheart was here (the boat that brought the radio hams up) as they had a compressor and gear on board.

Exploring the underwater world of the sub-tropical Kermadec Islands Marine Reserve.

Under the water in the sub-tropical Kermadec Islands Marine Reserve

Unfortunately the visibility wasn’t great and an absence of any logical sense of direction (or a compass) hampered our efforts to navigate from the boat to the edge of the Meyer islands. By the time we got to the best part we were getting low on air.

Nevertheless we found ourselves in an undersea world with an intricate abundance of life only a semi-tropical marine reserve could produce – sharks, thick schools of docile kahawai and king fish, fluorescent wrasse, giant groupers and many more creatures all dancing in time with the surge of waves. Magic!  

The marine environment here is just awesome! It’s rugged and dynamic and overflowing with life; we’ve been swimming with dolphins, seen huge sharks, turtles and whales, and been kept awake at night with cries from sea birds and crashing waves.

The sea temperature is up around the 25oC mark and whipping down to the beach for a swim, at least twice a day, has become part of the normal routine.

To the other side

Not long after the radio hams left, the weeding crusade took us west over to Denham Bay for a week. The bay stretches out 3km or so with a black sandy beach adjoining a thin strip of flat, pohutukawa-laden forest that is jutted up against steep cliffs and the edge of a caldera.

Wreck of the Kinei Maru at Denham Bay.

Wreck of the Kinei Maru at Denham Bay

With a west facing outlook, we spent every evening on the beach immersed in golden sunsets, magnifying the natural beauty of the bay.

Denham Bay is an area of the island that is particularly steeped in history; remnant fruit trees and artefacts from the Bell family era that began in the late 1880’s, graves of various sailors succumbing to sickness and shipwrecks, and the tales of slave ships dumping plague-ridden slaves overboard in the bay as a means of sorting the weak from the strong.

These stories of the past all give the bay an eerie tinge of harsh unhealed realities – a feeling that  is now often masked by the development of our relatively luxuriant lifestyles (at least it is in NZ). It is these, remote, raw and untouched aspects of the island that I have come to love the most. 

Festivities

Come the end of December, Christmas and New Year festivities were in full swing on Raoul. We kicked off on Christmas Eve with a golf tournament generously organised by our mechanic, Tim.

Toby proudly receiving his golf trophy.

Toby (R) proudly receives his Raoul golf trophy from organiser Tim (L).

There were a number of stringently enforced rules – no using names, attire had to be inappropriate, losing your ball resulted in the consumption of a beverage blindly chosen from a substandard selection of beer – as did taking a swing and missing the ball, cheating, and arguing with the organising committee (aka Tim).

The nine hole course was challenging with the second tee-off at the top of a cliff with the hole on the beach below while the fifth required an accurate and highly elevated shot over top of the workshop. Most surprisingly my ball landed closest to the pin on more than one occasion and I began to set my sights on the prestigious Green Jacket.

A couple of slips ups – missing the ball – of course due to the increasing  unbalanced set of golf clubs – resulted in my high sights being dashed down to second place which I shared with Maree . Toby took away the Green Jacket by four strokes and is now the new holder of the prestigious ‘Raoul Island Golf Tournament’ trophy

I’ve enjoyed the first half of my stint on Raoul so much – I can’t wait to see what more I can get out of it in the next half!

Links

Raoul Island volunteer programme


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