Archives For 30/11/1999

Come behind the scenes and into the jobs, the challenges, the highlights, and the personalities of the people who work at the Department of Conservation (DOC).

Cornelia guiding on Fox Glacier.

Guiding at Fox Glacier

Today we profile Cornelia Vervoorn, Partnerships Ranger on the West Coast and recipient of the 2014 Stephen O’Dea Award, a scholarship for DOC staff set up in memory of Stephen O’Dea who died at Cave Creek in 1996.

At work

Some things I do in my job include:

Everything, from falling into mud and gorse while doing grazing inspections, to trying to look knowledgeable when discussing geological sampling.

I also answer questions like “what kind of eggs do stoats lay?”; prepare media releases and social media updates; and help to develop and foster partnerships.

This helps achieve DOC’s vision by:

Seeing more people invest their money, time, effort, or other resources, in conservation. We all benefit from being surrounded by healthy, functioning ecosystems and having conservation recreation opportunities as a central part of our lives.

Cornelia standing in a stream with a school student looking for macroinvertebrates.

Looking for macroinvertebrates with a student from Whataroa School

The best bit about my job is:

Everyone says this, but he tangata, he tangata, he tangata! It’s the people I work with who make my day. Not just people in DOC, but all those people out there who passionately support conservation efforts.

The other bit is the landscape I work in. It’s pretty hard to feel grouchy when Mt Elie de Beaumont is shining over the river flats and the frosted grasses are steaming in the dawn mist. Or when someone says, “hey, do you want to come along and inspect the tahr campsites in the Adams Wilderness Area?”

The loveliest DOC moment I’ve had so far is:

When one of the teenage students on a week-long Untouched World Charitable Trust education programme at Okarito said to me, “This week has changed my life. I can’t thank you guys enough for sharing this with me”.

We’d worked so hard to make the week challenging enough but not overwhelming—this showed that we hit just the right note.

The DOC employee that inspires or enthuses me most is:

Partnership Ranger Tim Shaw—who says he’s a cynic but has a grand plan to make South Westland weed-free, knows exorbitant amounts about ecology and always suggests a new angle for me to think about curly issues. And he never fails to remind me that there’s more to life than work—thanks Tim!

The South Westland DOC team.

The South Westland team last year—a great bunch of people to work with!

On a personal note…

Most people don’t know that:

I had a picnic morning tea of louise slice and Milo with the ex-president of Slovakia, Rudolf Schuster, at Castle Rock, Ross Island, Antarctica, to celebrate his 75th birthday.

The song that always cheers me up is:

The Ship Song by Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds or Central Reservation by Beth Orton

My stomping ground is:

I grew up in Canberra, Australia, so the Orroral Ridge was a favourite, as was the Kosciuszko Main Range. Especially the walk from Blue Lake via Lake Albina and Mt Kosciuszko to the top of the Crackenback chairlift.

In New Zealand: Fox Glacier, Franz Josef Glacier and their névés have been my playground for the last 13 years. I’m also getting to know Kahurangi better now that my parents have moved to Nelson.

If I could be any New Zealand native species I’d be:

A kea. Because they don’t take anything seriously, and get to explore from the mountains to the sea, creating havoc along the way. And I could explain to the other keas that lead roofing nails and green cereal pellets should be left well alone.

Before working at DOC:

I worked as an anthropologist in the Northern Territory in Australia in the late 90s/early 2000s. I then had a complete career change, becoming a glacier guide at Fox Glacier and then at the Matanuska Glacier in Alaska.

This led on to two seasons as Programme Support Assistant at Scott Base. From there I did a season at Whakapapa Ski Field on the Trail Safety Team, and two weeks with Ultimate Hikes on the Milford Track, before being poached by DOC.

Cornelia and partner standing in front of a sign to 1080 Beach.

1080 Beach, it’s a lovely beach! No pests, either!

Deep and meaningful…

My favourite quote is:

Alone we are born
And die alone
Yet see the red gold cirrus
On snow mountain shine
Upon the upland road
Ride easy stranger
Surrender to the sky
Your heart of anger

–  High Country Weather (James K Baxter)

The best piece of advice I’ve ever been given is:

“Don’t let the bastards grind you down” — told to me by Alex Miller, ex-Chief Ranger, Westland Tai Poutini National Park and surrogate uncle.

In work and life I am motivated by:

My wonderful partner Jim Livingstone! And by new opportunities to explore New Zealand and the wider world.

My conservation advice to New Zealanders is:

You don’t know how lucky you are, mate. (Sung in Fred Dagg’s voice). We face problems like deteriorating water quality, species threatened with extinction etc., but the difference between us and so many countries is that we could reverse the downward trend if we had the will and made the effort as a country.

The areas we have that are still largely untouched are of such value not only to us but to the world—we are the lucky custodians of these areas. We should never be tempted to sacrifice these for short term economic gain when they are worth so much more as a lasting source of joy, not to mention “ecosystem services”!

Cornelia at Icestock music event in Antarctica.

“Ice Stock” – a pretty amazing live music event at McMurdo Base

Question of the week…

What are you most looking forward to as the recipient of the Stephen O’Dea Award?

The award will enable me to attend the IUCN World Parks Congress in Sydney.

I look forward to seeing landscapes and ecosystems during the field trip part of the congress.

Being an Aussie kid, I am partly familiar with these places, but it will be different seeing them through “conservation goggles”.

For example, I love the Australian Alps for their landscapes, from reading “The Silver Brumby” as a 12 year old horse-mad kid, and for the ski trips and bushwalking trips I’ve done there. However, what I don’t know is how the area looks when you consider threatened species and ecosystems, or how these are being protected and valued by Australians.

The Fox Glacier neve.

The Fox Glacier neve—an amazing place to learn to climb!

This week’s photo shows Waituna Lagoon—the location of a recent community open day marking the first year of DOC’s partnership with Fonterra.

Waituna Lagoon, Southland, New Zealand.

The natural habitat at Awarua-Waituna, including the 1350 hectare Waituna Lagoon, is one of five key areas that DOC and Fonterra are working together to improve over the next ten years.

The open day was a chance for the local community to see the work being undertaken at Waituna by Fonterra and DOC, in conjunction with Ngai Tahu, the Southland District Council and Environment Southland.

“In the first year our focus has been on monitoring and science. We’ve got to get this right to ensure the whole project sets off in the right direction and can make a real difference,” said Fonterra Living Water Project Manager, Nicola Toki.

On Friday 18 July DOC Ranger, Guy McKinnon, completed the first-ever solo winter ascent of the east face of Popes Nose, in Mt Aspiring National Park.

DOC Ranger, Guy McKinnon.

DOC Ranger, Guy McKinnon

Guy, who is part of DOC’s Search and Rescue Alpine Rescue Team in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, walked for two days in cold and difficult conditions from northwest of Lake Wanaka to the base of the east face of the ice-covered Popes Nose. He then scaled the incredibly steep 2700 metre peak in just five hours.

Mount Aspiring / Tititea is New Zealand's highest mountain outside the Aoraki/Mount Cook region

Mount Aspiring / Tititea is New Zealand’s highest mountain outside the Aoraki/Mount Cook region

Although the peak has been climbed three times before, Guy is the only one to have achieved the feat solo, and all his predecessors were flown to its base by helicopter.

New Zealand Alpine Club general manager Sam Newton said the only other winter climb, 24 years ago by a party of four, took two days.

“It’s an incredible climb—an incredible feat of talent and endurance,” Mr Newton said.

The Climber magazine editor, Kester Brown, said Guy’s ascent “must rate as possibly the finest alpine achievement of New Zealand’s modern era”.

The east face of Popes Nose, Mt Aspiring. Photo: Guy McKinnon.

Yes it’s steep! The east face of Popes Nose, Mt Aspiring

“There are still a lot of new routes and records to be broken up on these faces but after two -10° nights out, I think I’m done for the winter!” said Guy when we contacted him to see if he’d mind us sharing his achievement here on the blog.

Massive congratulations Guy!

Hewn through steep hill country 100 years ago as a stock route, the Pakihi Track on the East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island, is now a magnificent wilderness ride. Jim Robinson, Executive Officer for Motu Trails Charitable Trust, writes:

The Pakihi Track is now a magnificent wilderness ride. Photo copyright Motu Trails Cycleway.

The Pakihi Track—a magnificent wilderness ride

My most recent Pakihi escapade came hot on the heels of Easter’s ex-tropical cyclone Ita, which slammed the Eastern Bay of Plenty with an all-night lightning storm, tree-downing gales and, in one terrific downpour, 100 mm of rain in less than two hours.

Two days after that, I was joined in Opotiki by Toni Keeling, who had already finished the GODZone expedition adventure race and the Coast to Coast Longest Day this year.

“I’ve only done one ride since GODZone,” Toni grinned. But, typically, she was dead keen to do the whole 93 km loop of the Motu Trails: out on the Dunes Trail, up the historic Motu Coach Road, down the Pakihi, and back on the tar seal to Opotiki.

Tirohanga section on the Dunes Trail in the Saturday sun. Photo: Mike / Motu Trails Cycleway.

Tirohanga section on the Dunes Trail

The Dunes Trail

The Dunes Trail is a cinch, purpose built to answer New Zealand Cycle Trail (NZCT) standards. But it’s still a great legwarmer, rolling east over tussock-dressed sand dunes, with panoramic views of the Pacific.

Surprisingly, there were no other riders. And the usually common weka must all have been sleeping in.

Dunes Trail. Photo: Project Crimson.

Dunes Trail

The Motu Road Trail

After an hour, the Motu Coach Road clicked up the challenge (a big yellow road sign pulls no punches: “NARROW WINDING ROAD NEXT 48 KM EXTREME CARE”).

Meremere to Toatoa on the Motu Road Trail. Photo courtesy Motu Trails.

Meremere to Toatoa on the Motu Road Trail

With tight corners and precipitous drop-offs, ‘The Motu’ used to be one of the famed stages on the World Rally Championship calendar. It’s still the highlight of the Motu Challenge multisport race — a fave of ex-Whakatane MTB rider and 2011 national XC champ Carl Jones.

Motu Road Trail. Photo copyright: Motu Trails Cycleway.

Motu Road Trail

A few times I could admittedly have done with the horsepower of a Jonesy or a Colin McRae, but we made steady going, and reached the start of the Pakihi by early afternoon.

The Pakihi Track

The day was awesome, though a long way off tropical. So, stopping at the mini trailhead shelter, it was fuel up and jackets on for what Jonathan Kennett rates as “one of the longest most scenic downhill cycle trails in the country. It is virtually impossible to ride the Pakihi without a grin from ear to ear.”

Riding the Pakihi. Photo copyright Motu Trails Cycleway.

“It is virtually impossible to ride the Pakihi without a grin from ear to ear.”

Bringing the Pakihi back to life

Jonathan first rode the Pakihi in about 1996, while researching for Classic New Zealand Mountain Bike Rides.

One of my dog-eared early editions of the biker’s bible rates the track “50% semi-rideable jungle country, 50% sweet single track”. But by 2008, edition seven cautioned with an almost audible sigh: “in 2007, a big storm closed the Pakihi Track … it doesn’t sound like the Pakihi will ever be fully rideable again.”

Fortunately, in 2010 there was an unexpected saviour in the form of the New Zealand Cycle Trail.

The Department of Conservation (DOC) had been aiming for some years to restore the Pakihi for trampers and hunters, and got behind the concept of reopening access to bikers as well.

Rugged! Photos of the Pakihi before restoration

With two work teams, one from each end, DOC brought the Pakihi back to life, better than ever.

Riders on the Pakihi. Photo copyright Motu Trails Cycleway.

The Pakihi—back to life

As soon as we dropped off the Motu Road, Toni and I were into magic riding, below a dense canopy of forest, with punga fronds pushing in.

It’s wide and evenly graded, but a glance down confirms that you’re sidling an extremely steep slope.

Biking the Pakihi

Biking the Pakihi

Time and again, you skirt into a tight gut, cross a short wooden bridge, and return to the bush-clad face of the hill, all without changing more than a few metres in height.

I pedalled the Pakihi a year ago with four keen Australians, and they kept commenting how the scale of track work is unreal.

The 11 km upper section, with a dozen bridges and a total descent of about 300 metres, ends with a short sidetrack to the Pakihi Hut, which was built in 1969 by the New Zealand Forest Service (forerunner to DOC), for hunters.

The hut was originally big enough for 6, but the 2013 addition of an enclosed verandah and benching stretches that capacity.

It’s backcountry basic. But, for a lunch stop, it’s the best place on the trail — and if it’s sunny, there’s a picnic table.

Toni and I rolled straight on down, into the spectacular 10 km lower section, which starts by taking a tight twist into a shady gully with a small crashing waterfall.

One of many trackside waterways on the Pakihi. Photo copyright Motu Trails Cycleway.

One of many trackside waterways on the Pakihi

A few minutes more and we’d reached a 35 metre long suspension bridge, crossing the Pakihi River just above the confluence with Papamoa Stream.

The Pakihi Swingbridge. Photo: Jamie Troughton.

The Pakihi Swingbridge

The bridges keep coming, all numbered: 18, 19, 20, 21…. We paused several times to look left to small waterfalls, the cold hanging in the still air. I love these spots most of all in summer: the lichens and ferns stay fresh, the nikau throw shade, and there’s still ample water to fill a bottle.

Then, around bridge 24, the valley stretches open. The track widens and straightens. The sun warms. Suddenly, you pop out on the road end, and it’s over.

“There’s stunning scenery all the way down, and a great variation,” said Toni, when I asked for her perception as a Pakihi first-timer.

“There aren’t many places that you can easily ride so close to a river without being in a riverbed, or way up high on a cliff. It was amazing to be so close, seeing the sunlight glistening off the river and hearing the water.”

The Pakihi River

The Pakihi River — glimpses of perfection

“From what I’d been told, I was expecting a far narrower track with steep cliffs,” Toni commented. “In reality it was much better than I expected. You need to be cautious at times. But really why would you want to rush!”


Several shuttle providers offer group drop-offs and pick-ups around the Motu Trails. There’s a range of accommodation, including in Opotiki, Ohiwa, Tirohanga, Toatoa, Motu, Pakihi Valley and Te Waiti.

If you’re not keen on riding, the Pakihi Track is also a superb walk. From the Pakihi road end you can walk to the hut and back in about 5-6 hours.

Find out more at www.themotutrails.co.nz or ask in the iSITE at Opotiki or Gisborne. Get news and track updates on the Motu Trails Facebook page.

Abridged from ‘Glorious Pioneering’ in the June/July issue of New Zealand Mountain Biker Magazine

Looking for a slightly different day walk in the Wellington region? Then the Makara Walkway could be it. It’s one of my favourite short walks in the area.

Makara Beach.

Makara Beach

The Makara Walkway starts at Makara—a 16 km drive from Karori, over Makara Hill (watch out for cyclists).

Ohariu Bay is the starting place for the walk.

The best option is to walk around the beach, past Wharehou Bay, into Ohau Bay.

Both of these bays are popular with local fisherman and divers.

This is a fantastic piece of wild coastline, with a number of impressive rock formations and large number of seabirds—especially the loud and bright beaked oystercatchers.

makara-walk-variable-oystercatchercatcher

Variable oystercatcher

Another plus with this walk is that it is sheltered from the cold southerly wind. So, even if there’s a strong southerly, the walk is still pleasant.

Having said that, it does get hammered in a Nor’wester, so check the wind direction and speed before you head off—there is very little shelter along the track.

Rock formations along the Makara Walkway.

Rock formations

Once you get to Opau Bay the track heads up the hill (a little steeply) to Fort Opau, which was garrisoned by 100 soldiers during World War II. There is also an historic Māori pa site.

The views from the top are breathtaking: 360° views, including Mana Island, Kapiti Island, the Tararua Range, Mount Taranaki, the Marlborough Sounds and the giant wind turbines from Project West Wind, which has its own network of tracks.

This point is also a perfect place to watch the sun go down, or come up, if you’re super keen!

Views of the coastline along the Makara Walkway.

Great views along the track

From here it’s a downhill walk back to Wharehou Bay, and a short walk back to Ohariu Bay and your vehicle.

Wind turbines on the hills of Makara.

Wind turbines in Makara

The secret reason I love this loop track is that I proposed to my wife at the top—in a spot where we could see all the places that we had been tramping together.