Archives For 30/11/1999

Come behind the scenes and into the jobs, the challenges, the highlights, and the personalities of the people who work at the Department of Conservation (DOC).

Today we profile Acting Programme Manager – Biodiversity Assets, Chris Birmingham.

Chris Birmingham holding Rangi the kakapo in native bush.

Me with Rangi the kākāpō, unfound for 21 years until that fateful Waitangi Day in 2009

Position: Usually I am the Island Ranger/Manager of Te Hoiere/Maud Island Scientific Reserve in Pelorus Sound, but I am currently ‘pretend’ Programme Manager Biodiversity Assets in the Sounds Area Office for four months.

At work…

What kind of things do you do in your role?  

I manage Maud Island Scientific Reserve. This involves a plethora of things: monitoring the takahē population, quarantine and biosecurity, driving boats, driving tractors, managing visitors —including researchers and volunteers. We run day trips for the public in summer and host conservation volunteers and overnight school groups from the local area.

We do pines and other weed control, infrastructure management including the alternative energy set up on Maud, predator control and trapping, species monitoring and translocations, we even manage a small flock of sheep. I don’t sheer them though. I am an Area Warranted Officer and, oh yes, perhaps my biggest challenge, keeping a certain big green budgie in the manner to which he has become accustomed while he isn’t tied up with his Spokesbird activities.

Two pesky and noicy pukeko standing on Chris Birminham's deck.

The pesky noisy neighbours over for a cuppa

What is the best part about your job?  

Simple, I live and work on a beautiful island! I step outside and there I am, at work, no commuting necessary!

We share our house with geckos, giant weta and takahē to name a few… and we have a real live “fort” on Maud which might have one of the best views in the country—great spot for an after work beverage.

What is the hardest part about your job?

Linda and Chris standing on Maud Island with a bay in the background on a very sunny day.

Linda and I at home on Maud Island, Home Bay in the background, corker day

Isolation can be an issue. Careful planning is required to ensure things like fresh coffee, beer, wine, and cheese don’t run out. Thankfully we have a good relationship with the Pelorus mailboat.

I also miss family and friends, social engagements and family affairs. Luckily my fiancée Linda and I see this as an advantage sometimes too!

There are some work issues to deal with as well, of course!

The Fort on Maud Island, a concrete structure with a bicycle in the middle and islands in the background.

The Fort on Maud Island, every young (and older) boy’s dream!

What led you to your role in DOC? 

A Bachelor of the Arts in Sociology (relevant much?), followed by several years applying that as a bicycle courier on the mean streets of Auckland before a move into the office. This was followed by a sudden revelation that I didn’t want to do that forever more, provoked by a visit to a DOC friend on Rakiura. Six months later I was back there as a “weedo” exploring all the beauty and splendour of Stewart Island. For a boy from Auckland you can imagine the culture shock! No ecology/zoology/wildlife diplomas or degrees, I snuck in the back door! Since then I have spent a lot of time on islands… and the rest they say, is history.

What was your highlight from the month just gone? 

A dark grey Navy Seasprite helicopter lifts a new electricity generator on to the island beside a lighthouse.

Navy Seasprite lifting a new generator into place, Takapourewa/Stephens Island

Working with the Navy to effect the Takapourewa/Stephens Island resupply, moving six ton of equipment from Picton to Wellington onto the HMNZS Canterbury who then flew it onto Takapourewa with their Seasprite helicopter. The logistics were huge, the weather was atrocious, but at the end of it all everything panned out nicely. Credit to the Navy who hung about and waited for the wind to drop below 50 knots! A great example of interagency cooperation.

The rule of three…

Three loves

  1. Islands—in particular the islands of Aotearoa, but I am fascinated by islands in general as microcosms of biology.
  2. Bicycles, usually old, sometimes in pieces, mostly unrideable. It’s not really a love, more of an addiction and I should maybe seek help.
  3. Music. I don’t understand people who don’t enjoy quality music in some form or other and settle for the pfaff that commercial radio chucks at you. Justin Bieber and Katy Perry, I’m looking at you!

Three pet peeves

  1. Cats, feral and otherwise. Well, actually all introduced mammals.
  2. The Maud Island takahē when they decide that 3.30am is an acceptable time to call out (while on our front lawn or even front deck) to their mate, “I’m overrrrrrr heeeeere!” Who then responds, and they have a duelling banjos kind of stand off for 10 minutes. Life is tough!
  3. The pukeko who see fit to remove plants from our garden on Maud for the apparent fun of it, not to mention the ngaio that were so lovingly planted by volunteers.

Three foods

  1. All spicy food really, I like food you can taste!
  2. Linda’s Asian delights.
    Cheese and quality boutique beer from Marlborough brewers like Moa and Renaissance—beer is a food!

Three favourite places in New Zealand other than Maud Island/Te Hoiere

  1. Dusky Sound. I was lucky enough to live and work there on Anchor Island for a while and believe every New Zealander needs to visit the outer reaches of Fiordand if they can. Milford Sound is nice, Doubtful is pretty cool, BUT Dusky rules them all!
  2. Little Barrier Island, a fine example of primordial New Zealand. I lived there once, I met my wife to be Linda there, and one day we’ll get back.
  3. Te Anau—beautiful little town full of awesome people and stunning views.
Chris Birmingham standing on on a peak at dusk with various islands behind him.

Anchoria, Dusky Sound, with Reso in the background, in the footsteps of Richard Henry, can you smell the serenity?

Favourite movie, album, book

  1. Movie: The Big Lebowski – “the dude does not abide!”
  2. Album: Bailter Space – Robot World, seminal Noo Zilland band. Don’t blame me if you don’t like it though!
  3. Book: Currently I am reading Song of the Dodo by David Quammen, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Deep and meaningful…

What piece of advice would you tell your 18 year old self? 

Self, I would say, go and learn a trade before you do anything else. It will stand you in good stead later in life wherever you are and whatever you do. And don’t draw down all that student loan, you’ll still be paying it off in 20 years!

Who or what inspires you and why?

Good managers, who lead by example, who can get the most out of staff and help them realise their potential. I have always been (mostly) lucky to work under such managers in different organisations. Also Richard Henry, following in his Dusky footsteps (sometimes literally) is something I will remember forever.

When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up? 

Taller! My mother always said I’d grow but I hoped it would happen before I was 17! Thanks Mum.

And now, if you weren’t working at DOC, what would you want to be?

I hate to think what could have become of me. I found my niche when I left Auckland and headed south!

Chris Birmingham on a rugged, rocky coast with three others filming a television show.

Chalky Island, filming Wild Coasts Fiordland with Craig Potton, nice work if you can get it!

What sustainability tip would you like to pass on? 

Leave your car at home if you can, or catch a ride with a friend. Better yet, use public transport or your bike.

Which green behaviour would you like to adopt this year—at home? At work?

We already recycle everything and live off grid! So probably better composting practices at home on Maud involving more Saturday afternoon sheep pellet scooping missions! At work, trying to make the island houses more sustainable and nicer to live in with better insulation, double glazing and more efficient, modern heating.

If you could be any New Zealand native species for a day, what would you be and why?    

Either a kārearea or a kea. The falcon because the idea of flying fast appeals and being at the right end of the food chain would be good! The kea because, well it just looks like fun being a kea doesn’t it? Not to mention being the avian equivalent of a border collie with all that brain power!

What piece of advice or message would you want to give to New Zealanders when it comes to conservation? 

We’re on a big drive to get kiwis to engage in, and value conservation. To me that doesn’t necessarily mean getting out there and running a trap line, pouring your hard earned money into a community project or giving up valuable time to help save a species. It can be as simple as reducing your waste levels, not replacing the family cat (can you tell I don’t like cats?) or planting native trees in your garden for our birds. Even just becoming aware of the plight of our native flora and fauna. Every little bit helps.

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude. Their main focus is controlling weeds on the island, maintaining infrastructure such as buildings, roads and tracks, and carrying out work for Met Service and GNS.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by volunteer Helen Kay.

A world away

Having been accepted in to the Raoul weed programme as a volunteer, I had a matter of days to organise a flight over to New Zealand from the UK. I knew living and working on a remote island such as Raoul would be different in every way from my usual lifestyle in a city in northern England and it has not disappointed.

The hostel veranda in the sun.

Where we relax after a hard day’s weeding – the hostel veranda in the sun

After spending a week packing gear and training at Warkworth, we departed for Raoul on the Braveheart. Three nights of large swells, the unending feeling of nausea and the constant dread of someone being sick near me certainly made the trip memorable.

We’re here!

Dry land and the warm reception of the team lifted my spirits no end. Having amenities such as a fully equipped kitchen and bathrooms undoubtedly made it easy to settle quickly into island life.

Having said that, there are numerous aspects to living here that are very different from back home; having to keep track of our food usage for example. We are currently left with one tin of mushrooms and are saving it for a recipe deemed worthy. Cooking here is fun, we have to use what’s available whether it be from Arkwright’s (our food store) or from one of the hostel vegetable gardens. Tinned peaches seem to make a common appearance in a lot of meals.

A curious young masked booby looking at us.

Who’s looking at who? A curious young masked booby looking at us

What do I do?

Every week day we walk into the bush and search for alien plant species such as black passionfruit and peach. A large majority of the weeds we find are seedlings, but when you’re the person who happens upon that massive adolescent mysore thorn, it’s very satisfying. Competition does arise when it comes to weeding; it keeps us motivated on those more challenging days.

Very little of Raoul is flat so many of our weeding days are spent traversing (slipping and sliding) across steep gullies and swathes of wind-fallen trees. Naturally this earns some people (including myself) an impressive repertoire of cuts and bruises as well as that well-deserved home brew at the end of the day.

And the weekends?

Weekends provide ample time to do what you want, whether it be walking over to Denham Bay or one of the other huts, relaxing around the hostel, or brewing beer in the Rat & Tui Brewery. When we’re able to, snorkelling is definitely one of my favourite past times on the island.

The view of the crater from Mt Moumoukai.

The view of the crater from Mt Moumoukai

The best bits

It’s awesome living and working in a nature reserve. Being able to boat over to the Meyer Islets is extremely rewarding. Standing in a colony of Kermadec petrels with their tiny chicks or having a masked booby walk up to you completely unafraid are both amazing experiences.

I’m really enjoying learning about the flora and fauna of Raoul, especially the birds. The one exception is the pukekos between four and seven in the morning when they’re at their loudest!

All the new experiences here have impacted me positively in every way. We are half way through our six months here and there is still so much to see and do.

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude. Their main focus is controlling weeds on the island, maintaining infrastructure such as buildings, roads and tracks, and carrying out work for Met Service and GNS.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Team Leader – Restoration, Jess Clark.

On my bucket list

For 10 years, going to Raoul was pencilled in on my life agenda, and my time here is nearly over. In some respects the time is passing way too fast, in others it has been a long haul.

Walking along the coast towards Hutchies bluff and sooty tern colony.

Walking along the coast towards Hutchies bluff and the sooty tern colony

I thought I was off to live on a remote island and it would be fairly low profile, but this year has had more than its fair share of high profile visitors and media attention. Let’s hope the existence and significance of the Kermadecs is now more widely renowned.

It’s the beginning of summer when you arrive for the year long stint. Everything is flowering and breeding with cute babies everywhere as the next generation flourishes in a pest free environment.

There is sand on the beach for refreshing swims as you settle into the grand Raoul lifestyle. There is a good month of stinking hot humidity to sweat through the worst of the semi tropical climate. The top peaks of the island seem forever cloaked in cloud, creating its unique cloud bush habitat.

Getting to grips with Raoul

The bush is interesting and includes the lowland dry areas, as well as the cloud forest where there is the most diversity, with of course pohutukawa throughout.

RNZAF Airforce Orion delivering an air drop.

RNZAF Airforce Orion delivering an air drop

Admittedly, it’s frustrating at first at getting familiar with the plants. Species appearing like mainland species but existing in different habitat and others like ‘Mapou’ looking completely different to its mainland relative with the same common name.  Compared to the Waitakere Ranges there are distinctly less insects and spiders, which I have to admit I appreciate while scrambling amongst it all weeding.

The weeding is like going tramping in a team and sometimes when I’m climbing amongst the cyclone ravaged pohutukawa I feel like I’m in the movie Avatar, just without the flying and a bit more sweat, dirt and scratches.

Airdrops are always thrilling and I feel privileged to have had first hand experience with the NZ Navy, Air Force and Army.

A glimpse of a different world

Snorkelling with kingfish and blue maomao.

Snorkelling with kingfish and blue maomao

The sea is teeming with marine life, including a few seemingly impassive sharks, which are always magnificent to observe. Hours can be lost snorkelling and exploring the underwater world that collides against spectacular lava formations and rocks along the coast.

This is sea bird terrain, the racket of calls, squawks and chatter with their soaring wing spans or crowded flocks dominate the skies around the Meyers and infiltrate the subdued underwater world.

I’ll never forget the tropic bird stalling for a good 10 seconds mid-flight only meters away from me, turning its head to check me out. I have become accustomed to kakariki hanging out on the lawn, not bothering to fly away until you almost trip over them.

Tropic bird checking out the camera.

Tropic bird checking out the camera

It was an exciting and eventful winter with La Nina delivering Cyclone Bune and many other storms that raged over the island leaving destruction behind them, which in turn has opened up opportunity for the pioneer stages of Raoul bush to regenerate the open space left behind.

I feel like we are just coming out the other side of winter, and I’m glad I brought my hottie! A time of clear blue sky days with a crisp horizon line before it becomes hazy with humidity and wafts of the pleasant pungent aroma scent the air that will forever be a smell of Raoul for me.

More whales and sea birds are returning everyday for another season of their life at the Kermadecs and the change-over is drawing near for the annual swap of staff and volunteers.

The bird dominated skys on the Meyer Islands.

The bird dominated skys on the Meyer Islands

There is a certain amount of satisfaction surviving on a remote island for a year, although you certainly are not roughing it with the living conditions.

I feel incredibly honoured and proud to have contributed, weeded, protected, experienced and continued the legacy of many others in New Zealand’s most northern territory, and one heck of an environmentally significant place.

I’d like to send out a big welcome to the new team starting out on their Raoul journey.

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC have a small team of staff and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude. Their main focus is controlling weeds on the island, maintaining infrastructure such as buildings, roads and tracks, and carrying out work for Met Service and GNS.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Ranger – Threats (Weeds) & Biodiversity, Toby Shanley.

The tail end of cyclone season

By late March life here on Raoul Island had settled into a familiar routine made up of weeding four days a week, maintaining tracks, roads, grounds and infrastructure one day a week and for the most part exploring our beautiful surroundings on the weekend.

Raoul Island hostel.

The Raoul Island hostel on a calm day!

The end of March is usually seen as the end of cyclone season and it appeared the island was going to survive the summer unscathed by any major weather systems. But this was all about to change! On 26 March we woke to tremendous surf pounding the north side of the island, and although the weather was calm and fine this was a sure sign that trouble was brewing to our north.

Cyclone Bune is on its way…

A quick check of the weather map confirmed our suspicions as we saw a large storm brewing just south of Fiji. A Google search informed us that we were looking at tropical cyclone Bune (pronounced mm-boo-nay), which had just been upgraded to a category three cyclone. We also received a sat phone call from Metservice ensuring that we were aware of the cyclones proximity and they informed us that it was forecast to pass very near us as it travelled south.

The cyclone travelled very slowly towards us for the next two days and the swell grew until the whole island seemed to rumble under the force of the pounding waves. Then on the afternoon of Monday  28 March the winds began to rapidly increase as the cyclone approached us.

Fishing rock being pounded by surf.

Fishing rock being pounded by surf whipped up by Cyclone Bune

By this time all the necessary precautions had been taken so that light objects would not blow away and the hostel was as secure as possible.

…and Bune arrives!

By early evening the wind was screaming through the trees that line the edge of the cliff out in front of the hostel and leaves and small branches were being tossed high into the air. The winds continued to increase until around 8pm when all of a sudden they dropped completely leaving a very eerie silence.

We all went out on to the lawn and marvelled at how still and quiet it was compared to the chaos of a few minutes prior. This was the eye of the cyclone and we were unsure how long the stillness would last. We all went to bed expecting that any second the wind would return as strong as ever.

The trailing edge of the eye finally passed us at around midnight and the wind returned with renewed ferocity. The wind was now coming from the south west as opposed to the afternoon when it had been blowing from the north east.

Our accommodation is well sheltered from the north east but not so much from the south west and so we all had a very sleepless night. The wind seemed to build up in the hills behind the hostel and then coming roaring and screaming down towards us in regular violent gusts. But by morning the worst of it was past us.

The damaged foxway shed.

The damaged foxway shed

Surveying the damage

The task for the following few days was obvious, to survey the damage and to prepare for the cleanup. The first two priorities were to check our water supply and the road to our landing point which is 3 km away from the hostel. On checking the buildings around base we discovered that two had suffered substantial damage with one missing half of its roof.

The news back about the water supply and road was not good either. It looked as if the spring that we take most of our water from had been submerged by a giant slip and the road to the landing was covered in huge fallen trees. It was obvious that the cleanup would need to be started as soon as possible.

To add to the urgency of it we were due for a visit from the Heritage Expeditions cruise ship the Spirit of Enderby within two weeks. Over those two weeks the team put in a huge effort to clear enough of the roads and tracks so that we could show the passengers on the expedition some of this beautiful island we call home.

Forest flattened by Cyclone Bune.

Forest flattened by Cyclone Bune

The cyclone put the weeding on hold but we should be back into it by mid May when a team of people come up with the Navy to help clear the rest of the roads and tracks. The Navy will also bring us food and supplies for the next six months and four new volunteers who will live and work with us until we leave the island in late October.

Farewells

To the vollies who are leaving us Nicki, Maree, Terry, and Nigel a huge thank you for devoting a part of your lives to help restore this amazing island.

Raoul Island is one of the Kermadec Islands, about 1,000km north-east of New Zealand in the South Pacific Ocean. DOC has a small team of rangers and volunteers who live on the island in relative solitude, doing research. Their main focus is controlling weeds on the island, maintaining infrastructure such as buildings, roads and tracks, and carrying out work for Met Service and GNS.

Since the island is so remote, we get these diary entries from the team and post them up on their behalf. Today’s diary is by Raoul Island Threats (Weeds) and Biodiversity Ranger, Sian Potier.

Changeover week

Not many people get the opportunity to visit let alone live on Rangitahua (Raoul Island), the little subtropical treasure in the pacific. I have been lucky enough to return to this island which is again becoming home to a new team.

After 3 months training on the mainland we finally saw our first glimpse of Raoul Island from the vessel Braveheart at 5am on 25 October 2010. The drizzling weather did not dampen the mood after being welcomed around Hutchies Bluff by a pod of dolphins and a couple of whales breaching in the near distance.

New and old Raoul team in front of the hostel.

New and old Raoul team in front of the hostel

We had a busy changeover week with over 20 people on the island, including staff from GNS, Metservice, and DOC. During this week the previous team filled our brains with masses of valuable knowledge on how to run the island! We also managed to find time for countless volleyball matches, a tug of war competition and a memorable dress up party to send off the old team.

The week flew by, and the old team were given a typical Raoul Island salute send off. Then there were 8! It’s a strange feeling watching the boat leave, knowing the island is now in our hands.

On the airwaves

Two weeks later we had Braveheart return to the island bringing with them 14 ham radio enthusiasts from Germany, Poland and Greece.  So again the island was alive with people!

The “hammies” set up aerials all over the airstrip and spent 2 weeks on their radios attempting to contact as many people as possible all over the world. They had a successful trip, and even managed to find some time for a few guided walks and a great party at the end of their stay.

Down to work

Since the previous teams departure we have been busy getting our heads around all the tasks necessary to smoothly run a 3000 hectare island.  The weed programme is our main priority and is one of the key reasons we are here. We have all been introduced to the joys of weeding. We have been battling steep ground, scrambling through fern and finding weeds a plenty!  Scratched arms, legs and bruises are a good sign of a hard day’s work on Raoul Island.

Raoul team in front of crater lake.

Raoul team in front of crater lake

We also carry out contracts for Metservice and GNS.  A hydrogen filled weather balloon is released each day and water samples are taken from the crater lakes monthly.

Downtime

When we are not working we keep ourselves busy with essential day to day jobs such as maintaining the vege gardens, mowing lawns, cooking and baking. We have had a few experimental successes in the kitchen making chilli sauces, kawakawa chutneys, orange wine and flavoured beers with our local produce.

There is also plenty of time for exploring the island, snorkelling, swimming, surfing and of course the occasional dress up party. The next few weeks on the island will be spent weeding, enjoying the festive season and making the most of our time on the remote island paradise we now call home!

Links

Kermadec Islands

Raoul Island volunteer programme