Archives For 30/11/1999

By Herb Christophers

Ken Bradley.

Senior DOC Ranger, Ken Bradley

Ken Bradley was 16 years old when he first walked the Milford Track in 1968. That was 45 years ago and only one year after the Milford Track was opened to ‘Freedom Walkers’.

Now, as the track celebrates its 125th year since the route over McKinnon Pass was discovered, Ken tells me about his time on the track and the changes that have taken place.

Ken is part of the matrix of personalities whose life is bound to the Milford Track – he has been a guide, trackman, park assistant, park foreman and ranger in charge.

Man putting his feet up outside Trackman's Hut.

Trackmans Hut at Mintaro – one of original tourist huts at this location

He reckons he would have walked the track well over 100 times and walked the Clinton Valley part at least 500 times, either working, fishing or hunting. That’s hardly surprising when you realise he spent his early working years from 1972 until 1975 living in the Clinton Valley as guide/trackman with the Tourist Hotel Corporation which, in those days, had exclusive access for guided walks.

Man on a tractor.

A tractor on the track from Glade to Pompalona. This was the way stores were carried from 1965 to 1978

As part of his job, Ken worked on the ‘Tawera’ – the vessel taking people to the head of Lake Te Anau. This gave him access to the lower Clinton Valley on his days off to fish and hunt when he wasn’t volunteering to clean up the huts.

Tawera in its final years.

Tawera in its final years

“I remember back in the late 60’s and early 70’s there were no possums on the Milford Track, or very few,” says Ken.

“The birdlife has always been reasonably good, but it’s now a lot better since the stoat trapping undertaken in the last 15 years.”

In the late 1960’s there was plenty of deer living on the valley floor and it was really easy to shoot a couple to take out to sell. That would equal a week’s wages for Ken ($20 per week in 1968). By the mid 1970’s the numbers of deer had been greatly reduced by helicopter hunting for export. Trophy heads of those remaining became better, with more feed as vegetation recovered.

In 1976 Ken joined Lands and Survey Department which managed Fiordland National Park at the time, working on a wide variety of projects throughout the vast National Park.

National Park rangers clearing the new hut site at Mintaro.

National Park Rangers clearing the new hut site at Mintaro, 1986 (Ken Bradley in the green bush shirt)

Back on the Milford Track in 1992, Ken was ranger in charge of all operations up to 2006. Since then he has overseen track maintenance operations and other major projects in the area.

“Much of the grunt work was taken out of operations by helicopters but they were rare in the early days. These days, I am in and out of one most weeks somewhere on the track over summer,” says Ken.

Helicopter lifting material during the mid 1970s from head of Lake Te Anau.

Lifting material during the mid 1970s from head of Lake Te Anau

Ken’s favourite hut is Clinton Hut.

Clinton Hut. Photo: Neil Hunt/flickr.

Clinton Hut

“The old Clinton Forks Hut ‘at five mile’ was in danger of being washed out when the river changed course, so we moved it downstream in the mid 90’s to ‘two and a half mile’.”

Clinton Forks Hut, the original Freedom Walkers hut.

Clinton Forks Hut. Built in 1966 it was the original Freedom Walkers hut

Ken oversaw the recycling of 40% of the old hut and rebuilding and expansion of the current hut.

The most radical change that Ken has seen is the type of people doing the Milford Track.

People standing outside Mackinnon Pass Shelter No 2 during late 1950s.

Mackinnon Pass Shelter No 2 during late 1950s

Track walkers in flood conditions during the 1970s.

Track walkers in flood conditions during the 1970s

“People these days seem less prepared than you might expect for a trip in the outdoors. Even so, in spite of giving themselves a hard time, they always go away with a smile on their faces so I guess the experience outweighs the discomfort.” he says.

“Also, if we allowed 100 Freedom Walkers a day we would most likely fill them over the height of the summer. With 40 a day at present, we are at 98% capacity for all of the summer season.”


Related links

Milford Track
Heritage Walk on the Milford Track
Celebrate the Milford Track’s 125 years – Media release

By Philippa Christie, Community Relations Ranger, Murihiku Area Office

The Port Craig Hut began its life in 1926 as a school house in what was once a busy sawmilling settlement run by the Malborough Timber Company. At its peak, over 150 employees ran the mill and processed up to 1800 cubic metres of timber per month.

Greg outside Port Craig Hut preparing a window.

Volunteer Greg prepares a window to fit at Port Craig Hut

It was the largest and most modern sawmill in New Zealand at the time.

The settlement also had a blacksmith’s shop, a wharf, a cook shop, a bake house, and accommodation for the workers. While many remnants remain of these buildings and the sawmilling machinery, the school house is the only intact building that remains.

As the depression approached, demand for timber declined and the business venture struggled until it finally failed and closed in 1928.

Paul preparing the Port Craig Hut window frame for a replacement.

Paul preparing the Port Craig Hut window frame for a replacement

The school house saw less than four year’s use, and began its second life as a tramping hut in the 1960s.

The commitment, knowledge and skills of two volunteers have helped keep this historically important hut in Southern Fiordland weather tight and true to its original fabric.

An annual volunteer trip is run to carry out maintenance of the school house and surrounding relics from the saw milling era. This year the wooden exterior of the 86 year old building was showing signs of wear and the windows needed replacing.

Two volunteers—Greg Clark and Paul Clements—offered their time and skills to the project. Greg is a joiner by trade and built new windows for the school house from scratch. Paul glazed and painted the windows and transported them from his home in Dunedin. Not only did they construct the windows, they were onsite to carefully install them.

The volunteers standing on a bridge.

Volunteers standing on the historic Percy Burn Viaduct in 2010

Paul has been involved in conservation volunteer trips for over 15 years, and during that time has made a considerable contribution in both time and monetary value to the historic heritage of the Port Craig area. He is also involved in manning the DOC stall at the annual Crank Up Days held in Edendale, and eagerly passes on his knowledge of historic areas and relics that DOC Southland manages.

Greg’s grandfather, Archie Clark, in 1940 built the last remaining split beech log hut in Fiordland—aptly named the Clark Hut. Greg’s interest in conservation and volunteering began when he was invited to help restore a wall section of the hut in 2010. He has also been involved in making replacement windows for Becketts Hut in the Takitimu Mountains.

Paul and Greg are shining examples of how volunteers are contributing to increased gains in the conservation of our natural, historic and cultural heritage.

Greg outside another historic hut that required maintenance.

Greg at the historic Clark Hut

The Lower Acheron Suspension Bridge in South Marlborough was built by engineering students from Canterbury University in 1945, with their brief being to build a bridge that would take ‘one man on a horse at a gallop’.

Before and after

Before and after

Having been closed to the public for years, the historic bridge is now just about ready to be used again, thanks to a team of dedicated DOC workers from the region who spent an ‘abusively hot’ two weeks dismantling and rebuilding the bridge, while retaining its original character.

Replacing the decking.

Replacing the decking

Two workers in DOC uniforms removing the screw jack.

The screw jack enabled the removal of the tower

All gear was taken in by road, with a helicopter used to carry over the timber and equipment needed. This involved a couple of early mornings for staff, who made up for a short sleep with an al fresco cooked breakfast beside the Acheron River.

Staff had attended a harness use and fall arrest training course before the project, and received further instruction on rope rescue at the site.

Planning and setting up fall arrest systems that would be effective at all times and still allow the staff to move around on the bridge was all part of the challenge, and only the occasional nut or bolt (and maybe a drill bit…) was lost over the edge of the bridge!

Screw jacks were used to take the weight of the main cables (which were still in good working order), while each tower was removed, rebuilt and reinstated. The steel connecting plates were able to be reused, but most nuts and bolts were new. Only one of the droppers, three transoms, about half the bearers and the decking was replaced – everything else was reused. The native beech wood was replaced with Blackbutt (Eucalyptus pilularis), a tough and strong hardwood timber.

Five DOC workers sitting and standing around two DOC utes sharing some food.

Well-earned breakfast

The bridge is part of the ‘Molesworth Journey’, an attraction that incorporates short walks, lookout points, picnic areas and other historic structures into the drive between Blenheim and Hanmer, through Molesworth Station. It provides visitor access to the other side of the river for fishermen, walkers and swimmers, and will continue to be maintained as a historic asset.

New Zealand has an extensive history of gold mining. The principal New Zealand gold fields were Coromandel, Nelson/Marlborough, Central Otago and West Coast. DOC has as many as 1000 gold-mining sites on lands it manages, and some of these are currently used as campsites.

Grant Jacobs the author of the blog, “Code for life”, shares a recent experience he had while on a camping trip at a gold-mining era campsite. He writes*:

“[When] camping in New Zealand, small items left lying around are at risk from thieves. I was reminded of this whilst sitting on the foundation stones of what was once an old gold miner’s hut, the iron remains of the roof and perhaps chimney at my feet, reading a novel with my tent pitched on the other side of the clearing where the thief stalked.”

Tent across the clearing at an old gold mining campsite. Photo taken by Grant Jacobs.


Tent across the clearing at an old gold mining campsite

“Some of these camping grounds are now, and probably were then, home to indigenous thieves. As I sat on the foundation of the miners hut, my back against a tree, I became aware that one such cheeky thief was prowling my tent on the other side of the little clearing.”

A weka under the outer fly of the tent looking for items to steal. Photo taken by Grant Jacobs.


A weka under the outer fly of the tent looking for items to steal

“Those not familiar with weka might think that they would only steal food, but stories say that weka will steal seemingly anything portable that attracts their attention. Of the non-edible objects, lore has it that a bit like the gold miners, they prefer shiny things.

Weka have a bit of a reputation for pilfering small objects. They will take the objects to the nearest cover to investigate them. For this reason it is best not to chase weka but to simply watch where they go and retrieve the objects a little later.

Because of its scavenging habit, the weka can be problematic for conservationists. Some subspecies are threatened, but moving them to offshore islands can disrupt other threatened wildlife species. For example, weka released onto Codfish Island, where they haven’t lived in recent times, threatened the viability of the Cook’s petrels there and had to be removed.

Make sure you check out Grant’s full blog post.

*All text and photos from the blog “Code for Life” are copyrighted content of Grant Jacobs.

By Inger Perkins, Hokitika Office

The Cedar Flat Hut near Hokitika has recently been renovated and extended to provide 12 bunks alongside the two extra bunks in the adjacent historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut.

Cedar Flat Hut before the upgrade.

Before the upgrade

For every tramper, following the walk up the steady terrain of the steep walled Toaroha Valley, with the Toaroha Ridge to the East and the Deidrich Range dominating the west of the valley, a base at Cedar Flat is a gateway to Hokitika’s backcountry and offers a variety of options.

The huts are part of a network of huts, bivs, swingbridges and tracks up the valley and onto the tops.  The choice of direction, difficulty and duration are yours!

Cedar Flat Hut after the upgrade.

After the upgrade

The creek and hot springs are close by and you can wander up to the Toaroha Gorge, with its gorgeous blue water tumbling over jumbled rocks, only 0.5km away.  Enjoy the views as you look down from the swingbridge.

A day trip will take you to the alpine tops and back again.  Adventure Biv at the bushline is well worth the climb for stunning views.

DOC has been working hard in recent years to provide a network of maintained tramping tracks and huts that allow easily accessible circuits.  Two of the favourites among trampers are the Top Toaroha/Whitcombe circuit and the tougher Toaroha/Zit Saddle/Kokatahi/Lathrop Saddle/Styx River Route, both of which start from Cedar Flat.

The first, heading towards the Whitcombe, although challenging does not have the very steep slopes of the circuit over the Zit and Lathrop Saddles to the Styx.  Both will need experienced navigation skills in the group but will reward you with a remote back country paradise and views to go with it.

Brennan-Hughes family at Lathrop.

Brennan-Hughes family at Lathrop

The open flat, with plenty of room for camping and an ideal light and airy place for a hut, is ringed by cedar trees as its name suggests, as well as mixed rata and kamahi forest.  A useful note for trampers on colder nights, cedar doesn’t burn!  In fact it has even been used to line chimneys including the original chimney in the historic Cedar Flat Hut.

On the way up to the hut, you may be fortunate enough to see the elusive whio or blue duck, which is clinging to survival in the valley.

Whio (Blue Duck) with chick. (Photo credit – Mark Neilson).

Whio (Blue Duck) with chick

The start of the Toaroha Valley was initially a source of timber, particularly rimu, and later, when hot springs were found at Wren Creek beside Cedar Flat, accommodation was built for visitors to the springs and the then Westland County Council improved access up the valley by forming a pack track to the springs.

The springs are not easy to find, though a track to the right area of the creek is signposted.  A shovel is usually close by so that new ponds can be dug out.  Careful study of the area, along with clues from the hut book, could lead you to the treasure of a personal hot pool!

The hot springs accommodation became the original base for hunting in the late 1930s and early 40s and a new purpose built hut was built on the opposite side of the river, in its current location in 1957.

The historic hut is a rare and the best example of the regional hut design from the early stage of wild animal control under the New Zealand Forest Service, before national standard designs were used.  The hut was built using some locally sourced and hand worked timbers; the form of wood working expertise is no longer used and now only known by a few people.

Historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut (Cedar Flat).

Historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut at Cedar Flat

Visitors to the hut will have the opportunity to stay in the historic hut, which provides a unique experience seldom so easily accessed.

The later six bunk hut, built in 1968, was proving inadequate and a large hut was proposed to replace both smaller huts.  However, the historic values of the old hut have been recognised and, by extending the newer hut while retaining its look and feel, enjoyment of the old hut and its setting has been maintained.

The two Cedar Flat huts today.

The two Cedar Flat huts today

Tremendous feedback on the extended and restored hut has been received from visitors, particularly experienced trampers.  It has great views of the surrounding tops, where your next day’s tramp could take you.

As with all trips into the backcountry, it is important to be prepared and to leave your intentions with a responsible person.  A good level of fitness is recommended for tramps within the Toaroha Valley and if the river is up, the marked flood routes should be used.  A higher level of fitness and good navigation skills are important for the longer tramps.