Archives For 30/11/1999

Chrissy Wickes a Biodiversity Ranger based in the Te Anau Area Office tells us why she loved her recent hut break.

Why I loved my recent tramping trip to Heather Jock Hut:

1) It was easy for the family to walk, a great little overnight treat.

The view from Heather Jock Hut.

The view from Heather Jock Hut

2) We stayed in a really cool old hut in the tussock tops

An old biscuit tin at Heather Jock Hut.

A piece of history

3) We saw some amazing historic huts on the way to Heather Jock hut.

Chrissy outside Heather Jock Hut.

Outside the hut

4) There was a wee bit of shade and a small waterfall on the way to give us relief from a very hot afternoon

Chrissy relaxing inside the hut.

Inside the hut

5) Nobody else was staying there when we arrived – just as well as there were only 3 beds!

Kaye Coe from DOC’s Taranaki Area Office shares with us a recent hut experience in the Matemateāonga Range.

It’s dusk. Warm still hazy air. Cicadas buzzing. My 7 year son and I are sitting on the deck of Omaru Hut, Matemateāonga Track. I am loving the peace and quiet of the moment. My son is putting up with his mum’s need for the quiet moment.

Omaru Hut, Matemateāonga Track.

Omaru Hut, Matemateāonga Track

I hear a shrill bird like cry, a quiet pause, then another, closer, then another. I whisper “kiwi“. We hold our breath, closer, louder, any moment the kiwi was going to burst out of the bush beside us. Another whistle a few metres away. We sit, still as frightened mice, not making a breath of sound. There’s a pause then, far away, we hear another call. The closer kiwi replies and turns from us. The kiwi call to each other, slowly sounding further and further away.

North Island Brown Kiwi.

A few metres away, a kiwi

Four days tramping on the Matemateāonga Range, just us and nobody else except a few kiwi, possibly a kokako or two, some morepork and a few old goats. The best Christmas a mum could wish for.

Swing bridge on the Matemateāonga Range.

Four days tramping on the Matemateāonga Range


The Matemateāonga Track

The Matemateāonga Track is one of the two major tramping opportunities available in Whanganui National Park. Using an old Maori trail and settlers’ dray road you are able to penetrate deep into the wilderness of the park.

Ranger Chris Hankin writes about his adventure along the Routeburn Track with the Air New Zealand Great Walkers.

In early March I had the privilege of joining the Air New Zealand Great Walkers for their tramp over the Routeburn Track. This was to be their fourth Great Walk, hot on the heels of completing the Milford Track just two days before.

Standing beside the Routeburn Track sign on a wet day.

A bit of a wet one

I was impressed by the group’s enthusiasm and energy. The second day of our walk was especially memorable. We camped the night before at Lake McKenzie and awoke to a perfect blue sky day. As we hiked across the spectacular ‘Hollyford Face’ we had uninterrupted views of the snow-capped Darran Mountains right out to Martins Bay on the west coast. Ahead of us was ‘Conical Hill’, which at 1,515 metres offered us even more exercise before rewarding us with incredible views of the surrounding landscape. After this highlight we slowly made our way down past Lake Harris to Routeburn Falls where we were treated to a night with Ultimate Hikes at Routeburn Falls Lodge.

The Great Walkers on the Routeburn Track.

Richard, Steph and Toshi

We enjoyed meeting the guided trampers and hearing about their own journey over the Routeburn. Everyone reflected on the day, of the plants, birds, streams, lakes, mountains and glaciers we had all been treated to.

The experience reminded me of the first time I enjoyed the Routeburn Track (and other Great Walks such as the Kepler).

Toshi standing near Erland Falls.

Toshi at Erland Falls

Now I am working for DOC I appreciate the huge efforts that keeps everything running smoothly. However when I first walked these tracks I didn’t quite realise what went on ‘behind the scenes’. I simply found myself walking in an amazing environment. When I was with the Air NZ Great Walkers I was reminded that they were seeing the walk for the very first time.

Conical Hill on the Routeburn Track.

Conical Hill

I found that as our tramp progressed the less I needed to say to them, as they were enjoying taking it all in. After the walk one of the walkers said to me ‘to experience these places first hand redefines the meaning of special’. I am sure most people completing a Great Walk for the first time, wherever it is, come away feeling much the same.

Chris and the Great Walker team on the Routeburn Track.

Chris and the Great Walker team.

By Inger Perkins, Hokitika Office

The Cedar Flat Hut near Hokitika has recently been renovated and extended to provide 12 bunks alongside the two extra bunks in the adjacent historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut.

Cedar Flat Hut before the upgrade.

Before the upgrade

For every tramper, following the walk up the steady terrain of the steep walled Toaroha Valley, with the Toaroha Ridge to the East and the Deidrich Range dominating the west of the valley, a base at Cedar Flat is a gateway to Hokitika’s backcountry and offers a variety of options.

The huts are part of a network of huts, bivs, swingbridges and tracks up the valley and onto the tops.  The choice of direction, difficulty and duration are yours!

Cedar Flat Hut after the upgrade.

After the upgrade

The creek and hot springs are close by and you can wander up to the Toaroha Gorge, with its gorgeous blue water tumbling over jumbled rocks, only 0.5km away.  Enjoy the views as you look down from the swingbridge.

A day trip will take you to the alpine tops and back again.  Adventure Biv at the bushline is well worth the climb for stunning views.

DOC has been working hard in recent years to provide a network of maintained tramping tracks and huts that allow easily accessible circuits.  Two of the favourites among trampers are the Top Toaroha/Whitcombe circuit and the tougher Toaroha/Zit Saddle/Kokatahi/Lathrop Saddle/Styx River Route, both of which start from Cedar Flat.

The first, heading towards the Whitcombe, although challenging does not have the very steep slopes of the circuit over the Zit and Lathrop Saddles to the Styx.  Both will need experienced navigation skills in the group but will reward you with a remote back country paradise and views to go with it.

Brennan-Hughes family at Lathrop.

Brennan-Hughes family at Lathrop

The open flat, with plenty of room for camping and an ideal light and airy place for a hut, is ringed by cedar trees as its name suggests, as well as mixed rata and kamahi forest.  A useful note for trampers on colder nights, cedar doesn’t burn!  In fact it has even been used to line chimneys including the original chimney in the historic Cedar Flat Hut.

On the way up to the hut, you may be fortunate enough to see the elusive whio or blue duck, which is clinging to survival in the valley.

Whio (Blue Duck) with chick. (Photo credit – Mark Neilson).

Whio (Blue Duck) with chick

The start of the Toaroha Valley was initially a source of timber, particularly rimu, and later, when hot springs were found at Wren Creek beside Cedar Flat, accommodation was built for visitors to the springs and the then Westland County Council improved access up the valley by forming a pack track to the springs.

The springs are not easy to find, though a track to the right area of the creek is signposted.  A shovel is usually close by so that new ponds can be dug out.  Careful study of the area, along with clues from the hut book, could lead you to the treasure of a personal hot pool!

The hot springs accommodation became the original base for hunting in the late 1930s and early 40s and a new purpose built hut was built on the opposite side of the river, in its current location in 1957.

The historic hut is a rare and the best example of the regional hut design from the early stage of wild animal control under the New Zealand Forest Service, before national standard designs were used.  The hut was built using some locally sourced and hand worked timbers; the form of wood working expertise is no longer used and now only known by a few people.

Historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut (Cedar Flat).

Historic 1957 deer cullers’ hut at Cedar Flat

Visitors to the hut will have the opportunity to stay in the historic hut, which provides a unique experience seldom so easily accessed.

The later six bunk hut, built in 1968, was proving inadequate and a large hut was proposed to replace both smaller huts.  However, the historic values of the old hut have been recognised and, by extending the newer hut while retaining its look and feel, enjoyment of the old hut and its setting has been maintained.

The two Cedar Flat huts today.

The two Cedar Flat huts today

Tremendous feedback on the extended and restored hut has been received from visitors, particularly experienced trampers.  It has great views of the surrounding tops, where your next day’s tramp could take you.

As with all trips into the backcountry, it is important to be prepared and to leave your intentions with a responsible person.  A good level of fitness is recommended for tramps within the Toaroha Valley and if the river is up, the marked flood routes should be used.  A higher level of fitness and good navigation skills are important for the longer tramps.

DOC Great Walks logo.

by Siobhan File

So like eager beavers (after some small packing issues), we headed down the road towards the start of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, got a little bit lost in the DOC car park, and eventually found the National Park entrance.

Siobhan stands in front of the DOC sign on the Abel Tasman Coastal track before an 11.8km walk.

A leisurely 11.8k stroll for the first day

I know there must be some decent synonyms for ‘golden’ and ‘sparkling turquoise’, but they’re actually the colours of the sands and waters that the track meanders through. Although they don’t do it justice. As we made our way into the bush and climbed a little bit higher, we got warmer and warmer, and all I wanted to do was jump into the sea and bask in the sun.

Instead, we started playing ‘who can guess how long DOC thinks it’ll take till we get to the hut?’ before reading each signpost, and making bets on who was closest. In the end we arrived around an hour sooner than DOC predicted we would.

Siobhan in front of a scenic view of Abel Tasman Coast.

Not a bad spot to spend a Friday arvo in

After about 2 hours in, we started getting pretty sore feet and felt a few blisters forming—despite wearing comfy shoes/boots that’d been fine previously. We figured the extra weight of the packs, and walking on the harder sandstone rather than mud were the causing factors. I had taken a 50 pack of sticking plasters with me. I definitely recommend others do the same. I returned with only 2 left.

After 3 hours walking, we arrived at Anchorage Hut. The sun was still out, there were people eating dinner on the beach and at picnic tables around the hut, and there were only 3 bunks left. We bagsed our beds, cranked out the wine and cheese and headed down to the shore. Bliss. As the sun went down, the sandflies came out so we headed back to the hut area to fire up the gas cooker. After dinner we went inside to play cards and realised we hadn’t brought any candles! We played by torch light for a while but headed to the bunk room shortly after. Ear plugs were a good thing with about 16 people in the room (lots of sleeping bag rustling and a few snorers).

Stopping at a beach along the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.

Making Sam’s pack half a bottle of wine lighter

The next day, Sam had an early morning swim (I wasn’t so brave) and we prepared our gourmet breakfast—squashed croissants with camembert, avocado and ham. Delish. Before we left, we got talking to a Mexican guy who was also walking to Awaroa Hut that day. One thing I noticed was that there were no other kiwis on the trip! Lots of Germans, some Austrians and Americans. But no locals.

The walk on the second day was amazing. There was only one difficult bit—a lengthy hill just after our lunch stop—but most of the time it was pretty flat. For this reason I reckon it’s the best Great Walk to go for if it’s your first time, or if you’re worried about your fitness levels. The track is really well maintained—there’s no figuring out where you’re going to put your foot next like in some tracks. You can also choose to break it up into just 3 or 4 hours of walking a day. We skipped Bark Bay hut on day 2, and as such, our feet were aaaaching. In the second half we actually took as long as DOC said we would because we were plodding along so slowly.

Siobhan on the famous swing bridge along the Abel Tasman Coastal track.

Hanging out on the famous swing bridge

We had taken the slightly longer route because we weren’t in tune with the low tide, but it didn’t matter. We crossed a few little streams, and I was lucky enough to be carried over a few by Sam, who took his pack, my pack, and me all at once (before you leap to conclusions about my wuss levels, I hadn’t whinged or made any complaints—I merely accepted the offer). Seeing Awaroa Hut in the distance as we turned the corner was the best sight ever, and even I was game for a swim after arriving.

Afterwards we got straight to work on the remaining wine, cheese and crackers, and had a yarn with the friendly DOC hut warden who lives in a house nearby for 7 months a year. What a great spot! After dinner we got chatting with the others, including our new Mexican friend who’d arrived late after walking the low tide route despite it being high tide. There were only 12 of us all up, and there was a more open, chatty atmosphere among us, compared to the first hut that was full. The sandflies here were like nothing I’ve experienced before. They took no notice of the fact I’d drenched myself in insect repellent. The only option was to cover up or go inside. One tramper said coconut butter kept them away, so I’ll have to try that next time.

Sam takes a break instantly upon arriving, but perks up enough to help prepare the nibbles.

Sam takes a break instantly upon arriving, but perks up enough to help prepare the nibbles

On Sunday morning we woke to rain on the roof. We’d had to change our plans to taxi back from Awaroa instead of Totaranui because of a slip, so we headed to the lodge where the taxi comes in (via the skyline route for one last view). The ride back was about an hour and a half long. Seeing the land from the sea highlighted how far we’d actually walked! Our taxi driver doubled as a tour guide and we learnt heaps about the area, and stopped to see some sunbathing seals on the islands.

Sergio and Ingrid head back from the Abel Tasman Coastal track on the boat.

Sergio and Ingrid enjoying the ride home

We arrived back in the Abel Tasman Aqua Taxi car park pretty exhausted but happy we’d made it back in time and in one piece—even if we both had limps from blister overload. I told Sam I didn’t think I could handle another day, and therefore some of the longer Great Walks, but actually, if I’d had better shoes it would’ve been fine. I think you can even hire them so that makes things easy. Since putting the photos of our trip on Facebook, I’ve had 4 different people tell me they now want to do the walk. I hope I’ve inspired some readers to get booking too! It’s definitely an amazing walk and now that I know what to expect, I’ll be getting a group of friends together early next year for the Waikaremoana Great Walk! Fun times ahead!

For info on all of the Great Walks, check out www.greatwalks.co.nz, and follow the Great Walks Facebook page.